The Egyptian Museum in Tahrir Square opened in 1902 and remains one of the world's great collections. The Royal Mummies room (extra ticket, 180 EGP) houses 22 pharaonic mummies including Ramesses II, Seti I, and Queen Hatshepsut in climate-controlled cases. The Tutankhamun rooms on the upper floor still hold objects not yet transferred to the Grand Egyptian Museum. Arrive early — 9am — and visit the mummies first when they are quietest. The garden cafe is one of the most peaceful spots in central Cairo.

Start at the Al-Azhar Mosque end (south) and walk north. The route passes: Al-Azhar Mosque (no entry fee, dress modestly), Al-Ghouri Complex with its madrasa and Wikala, the Sabil-Kuttab of Abdel Katkhuda (one of the finest 18th-century public water dispensaries in Cairo), Qalawun Complex (free, extraordinary courtyard), and the Barquq Complex. End at Bab al-Futuh (Gate of Conquest, 11th century) and climb the gate walls for a view over the medieval city. Total walking distance: 1.5km. Allow 3-5 hours with stops.

Arrive 45 minutes before sunset. The park sits on the Ayyubid city wall and looks directly over the domes and minarets of Islamic Cairo. At golden hour, with the call to prayer sounding from multiple mosques simultaneously, this is the definitive Cairo view. Entry: 30 EGP. The cafe serves good Egyptian food with the same view. Best visited weekday afternoons to avoid weekend crowds.

Start at 7am at any street ful cart in Islamic Cairo. Move to Koshary El Tahrir (Downtown) at 1pm for a large bowl (35 EGP). Walk to Abu El Sid for afternoon karkadeh. Find a hawawshi shop in Bab el-Shaaria for a late afternoon meat pie (15-20 EGP). End the evening at El Abd on Talaat Harb Street for konafa or om ali (20-30 EGP). Total cost: under 150 EGP for one of the great eating days in the Middle East.

Hire a felucca near the Zamalek corniche or from the docks behind the Four Seasons Garden City. Price: 150-250 EGP per boat (not per person) for 1-2 hours. Bring drinks. Bring nothing that needs doing. The felucca captain sails and you watch Cairo drift by. The 6-7pm window catches the golden light on the buildings and the evening call to prayer. Negotiate the price and duration before boarding — agree clearly on "per boat" not "per person."

Located in Zamalek at 197 26th of July Street. Open Thursday, Friday, Saturday from 9pm. Cover charge: 100-200 EGP depending on the night. Drink prices: 80-150 EGP. The music is genuinely good — a rotating programme of jazz, blues, Egyptian contemporary, and world music. Arrive by 9:30pm to get a good table. The crowd is a mix of Egyptians and expats, young professionals. One of the few places in Cairo where the night reliably delivers what it promises.

Entry: 180 EGP adults. The Great Pyramid interior costs an extra 360 EGP and is a narrow, hot passage to an empty granite chamber — worth it only for completists. The Solar Boat Museum next to the Great Pyramid (extra ticket, 100 EGP) houses a 4,500-year-old cedar boat buried beside the pyramid. It is extraordinarily preserved and almost always uncrowded. The classic Sphinx photograph: stand at the viewpoint east of the Sphinx to get the pyramid directly above its head. Bring water, hat, and sunscreen.

Entry: 450 EGP general. Tutankhamun gallery extra: 100 EGP. Open daily 9am-5pm. The Tutankhamun wing alone requires 2-3 hours — all 5,000+ objects from the tomb displayed together for the first time, including the gold death mask, the golden throne, the chariots, and the canopic shrine. The museum restaurant on level 2 has a direct pyramid view. The building itself — a translucent stone facade with the Great Pyramid always visible through the glass — is one of the great pieces of contemporary architecture in Africa.

Entry: 240 EGP general (includes 3 tombs). Extra tickets: Seti I KV17 — 1000 EGP, extraordinary painted ceilings; Tutankhamun KV62 — 300 EGP. Best tombs on the general ticket: KV2 (Ramesses IV) — astronomical ceiling paintings; KV11 (Ramesses III) — painted daily life scenes in side chambers; KV35 (Amenhotep II) — atmospheric and less visited. Arrive at 6am when gates open. Take a golf cart from the entrance to save energy (30 EGP). Bring a torch for darker tombs.

One of Egypt's most memorable experiences. Book through Magic Horizon or Hod Hod Soliman — both have modern fleets and international safety certifications. Cost: $80-120 USD per person. Book the evening before. Pickup from your hotel by 5am. Flight duration 45-60 minutes. The view at dawn — the Nile, the Valley of the Kings, the cultivated fields, the desert beyond — is extraordinary. Landing is in open fields on the west bank; bus returns you to the hotel.

Entry: 240 EGP. Open 6am. The Hypostyle Hall contains 134 columns up to 23 metres tall — the scale is genuinely difficult to process. Arrive at 6am when it opens for near-solitude in the hall. Photography in the early light is extraordinary. The Sacred Lake at the back of the complex is quiet and has the best light in the late afternoon. The Sound and Light Show (runs 3 times per evening at set times) is genuinely worth attending — the narrative is theatrical but the lighting on the columns at night is spectacular.

The convoy departs the Aswan police station at 3:30am — arrive by 3am. The drive takes 3.5 hours through open desert. The twin temples — Ramesses II's and Nefertari's — were carved from solid rock in 1264 BC. Both were moved 65 metres uphill and 200 metres back from the Nile in the 1960s to save them from Lake Nasser. Entry: 180 EGP. Return convoy at 11am. The solar alignment (February 22 and October 22) draws large crowds — avoid those specific dates if you prefer a quieter visit.

Public ferry to Elephantine Island from behind the Corniche: 5 EGP. Walk south to the Nubian village at the tip of the island. The painted houses, the crocodiles kept as pets (visible in several houses), the cafes on the Nile, and the completely different aesthetic from anything on the east bank. The Nubian Museum on the east bank (entry 80 EGP) provides essential context on Nubian history, especially the displacement caused by the Aswan High Dam. Both together make a genuinely memorable afternoon.

Begin at St Catherine's Monastery at 1am. Hire a Bedouin guide from the village (100-150 EGP). The camel path takes 2.5-3 hours. The 750 Steps of Repentance near the summit are on foot only. Arrive by 4am to secure a position. Sunrise is around 6am. What you see: the granite landscape of southern Sinai, the Gulf of Aqaba, and — on a clear morning — Saudi Arabia. Bring warm layers (the summit drops to 5C even in summer), a headlamp, and water.

The Blue Hole is 10km north of Dahab, accessible by taxi (30 EGP). Entry: 5 EGP. Snorkelling: rent mask, snorkel, and fins from shops at the site (30-50 EGP) and explore the reef wall that drops into the hole. The top of the hole and the surrounding reef are extraordinarily colourful. Diving: organise through any Dahab dive centre ($35-50 for guided dives). The Arch — a passage at 56m connecting the hole to open water — requires Advanced Open Water certification minimum and is genuinely dangerous without proper qualifications and a certified guide.

Arrange through any Siwa hotel. Cost: 350-500 EGP per person in a shared 4x4. Standard itinerary: drive into the dunes, sand boarding, stop at a fossil site in the desert, and watch sunset from a high dune overlooking the Great Sand Sea. The landscape is unlike anything in Egypt or most of the world — an endless ocean of sand, silent except for the wind. Dawn is the better light; sunset has the better atmosphere. Book the evening before.

Entry: 20 EGP per person plus 20 EGP per vehicle. Hire a private car from Cairo (600-800 EGP round trip) or take the microbus from Cairo Giza to Fayoum station then local transport to Wadi El Rayan. The waterfalls connect the upper and lower lakes. The lower lake has reed beds and birdlife. Best visited early morning on a weekday when Egyptian families have not yet arrived. In spring (February-March), the surrounding desert flowers briefly and the combination of wildflowers and water is extraordinary.

Wadi Al-Hitan (Valley of the Whales) is a UNESCO World Heritage Site containing hundreds of fossilised whale skeletons from Basilosaurus and Dorudon — primitive whales with vestigial hind legs, representing an evolutionary link between land mammals and modern cetaceans. The skeletons are marked and accessible on foot. The small on-site museum explains the fossil record clearly. Entry: 25 EGP. A private vehicle is required — no public transport reaches the valley. Combine with Wadi El Rayan for a full Fayoum day.

Entry: 70 EGP. Open Saturday to Thursday, 10am-7pm. The reading room — a tilted disc that slopes toward the Mediterranean — seats 2,000 scholars. The attached Antiquities Museum holds objects from Roman-era Alexandria including a remarkable collection of Greco-Roman sculpture found during harbour dredging. The Manuscript Museum has ancient papyri. Temporary exhibitions on the upper floors change regularly. The cafe overlooking the sea provides a good rest stop between galleries.

Entry: 80 EGP. The painted Middle Kingdom tombs (2055-1650 BC) on the east bank of the Nile show Egyptian daily life in extraordinary detail — 219 wrestling positions, desert hunting scenes with animals long extinct in Egypt, a naval battle, craftsmen at work. Priority tombs: Tomb 2 (Amenemhat) for the wrestling register, Tomb 15 (Baket III) for the hunt scenes, Tomb 17 (Khety) for the military scenes. Accessible by boat from the west bank village of Abu Qirqas. Hire a driver from Minya for the day including Beni Hassan and one other site.

Ras Mohammed National Park can be reached by day boat from Sharm el-Sheikh (book through any hotel, $30-50 USD including lunch, snorkel gear, and entry). The Shark and Yolanda reefs — accessible by snorkel at the park — drop dramatically into deep water with extraordinary coral and marine life including sharks, rays, barracuda, and hundreds of reef fish species. Alternatively, rent a car (120-150 EGP/day) and drive to the park yourself (entry 220 EGP). The western shore has beach access and excellent shore snorkelling.

Feluccas depart from the Corniche near Tahrir Bridge and from the Zamalek island shore. Negotiate per boat: 100-200 EGP for 1 hour for the whole boat (fits 6-8 people). The best time is 5-7pm in winter, 6-8pm in summer. Bring your own drinks. The captain handles everything.

Several operators on the desert road behind the Giza pyramids offer quad bike rentals ($25-40 USD per bike, 2 hours). The terrain transitions from hard-packed sand to soft dunes within minutes. Best done at 4pm for sunset light. No experience needed; guides lead the group.

Entry: 50 EGP. Built on a 500-year-old rubble dump as a gift from the Aga Khan Foundation. The restaurant on the upper terrace (Citadel View) has one of the best panoramas in Cairo. Quietest on weekday mornings; Friday evenings fill with Egyptian families.

Negotiate at the plateau entrance or through your hotel. Fair rate: 150-250 EGP per camel per hour. Ask for "the panorama point" — the high desert behind the plateau where all three pyramids align with the Cairo skyline behind them. 1.5-2 hours round trip is ideal.

Entry: 450-700 EGP. The GEM sits at the base of the Giza plateau. The grand staircase displays 87 colossal royal statues. The Tutankhamun galleries occupy 7,000 sqm — triple the old Cairo Museum's Tut rooms. Allow 4-6 hours. Book tickets at gem.gov.eg to skip the queue.

Entry: 250 EGP. Runs nightly in English (different languages on different nights). You walk through the site rather than viewing from outside — more immersive than the Giza version. Arrive 30 minutes early. Bring a light jacket October-March when Luxor nights get cool.

Breakfast route: fuul cart on Maabad al-Karnak St (opens 6am), fresh sugarcane juice at the corner stall, koshary shop one block east. Budget: 40-80 EGP for a complete breakfast. Roasted sweet potato (batata) from mobile carts is a seasonal highlight October-February.

Hire from the Corniche landing near the Luxor Winter Palace Hotel. Per-boat rate: 100-150 EGP per hour. The current flows north so you sail south and drift back effortlessly. An early evening felucca before the Karnak Sound and Light show makes a near-perfect Luxor evening itinerary.

Entry: 200 EGP. The floodlighting is done well — columns cast dramatic shadows, and the Abu Haggag Mosque inside the temple complex is also lit. Visit 7-9pm for fewest crowds. The Corniche restaurants immediately opposite have tables facing the lit temple — one of Egypt's best dinner views.

Hire from the Corniche landing opposite Elephantine Island. Per-boat rate: 150-250 EGP per hour. Ask to sail around both islands. When wind allows, ask the captain to cut the engine and sail in silence — the Nile at Aswan is extraordinarily quiet. Best time: 4-7pm.

Several families on Elephantine Island (5 EGP ferry from the Corniche) host visitors for meals. Arrange through your hotel. A full Nubian lunch including Nile perch, Nubian ful with sesame and date molasses, waika (okra stew), and karkade typically costs 150-250 EGP per person. Book the day before.

Arrange through your hotel or at the West Aswan camel hire point. Standard route: 2 hours through desert scrub to a Nubian village, tea at the village, return. Price: 200-350 EGP per person including guide. Morning departures (8-10am) avoid the worst heat.

Microbus from Raml Station to Abu Qir: 8 EGP, 40 minutes. Choose fish, shrimp, squid or crab from the ice display at the entrance, agree price per kilo, specify how you want it cooked. Add salad, bread, and tahini. Total for two with lobster: 400-600 EGP. The fish market mornings (7-9am) is spectacular.

Start at Raml Station and walk east. Key stops: Bibliotheca Alexandrina (entry 70 EGP if entering), Cecil Hotel facade (1929, Art Deco), Fort Qaitbay at the harbour mouth (built on the Pharos Lighthouse site, entry 80 EGP). Cafe Pastroudis is on Al-Horreya St — unchanged since 1923, with mirrored walls and Greek pastries. Coffee 25 EGP.

The Eastern Harbour contains the sunken remains of Cleopatra's palace complex, submerged by earthquakes in the 4th century AD. Dive operators in Alexandria offer guided snorkel trips over the site. Visibility best April-June and September-October. Book at least a day in advance and confirm the guide is CDWS-licensed.

Hurghada has 20+ dive centres. A two-dive day trip to Giftun Island reefs: $40-60 USD including equipment, guide, and lunch. The SS Thistlegorm wreck (WWII British cargo ship, top-10 dive site globally): $70-90 USD, requires Open Water certification. PADI courses available in 3-4 days for ~$300-400 USD.

Available from all Hurghada hotels. A standard jeep safari covers 3-4 hours of desert driving including a Bedouin camp stop with tea, a red canyon landscape visit, and a 2-hour snorkel stop at Magawish Island reef. Ask whether your operator works directly with Bedouin guides before booking.

Walk 10 minutes inland from the Dahab seafront to leave streetlights behind. Or book a Bedouin desert camp ($15-25 USD, dinner included). Best October-March for longest nights. Bring a warm layer — desert temperature drops 15-20 degrees after sunset. The Stellarium app helps identify what you're seeing.

Ask at your Dahab guesthouse for an introduction to a Bedouin host rather than booking a tour package. A genuine evening includes tea with sage or mint, sometimes a meal of dried fish and flatbread, and music. Dress modestly. Bring a small gift (tea, dried fruit) if invited to a family setting.

Shali rises on a rock at the centre of Siwa Oasis. Inhabited until a three-day rainstorm in 1926 dissolved the kershef (salt rock and mud) architecture. Freely walkable — no entry fee. Climb to the top for views of the salt lakes and Great Sand Sea. The Oracle Temple of Amun where Alexander the Great consulted the oracle in 331 BC is a 10-minute walk. Entry 40 EGP.

All Siwa hotels arrange Great Sand Sea excursions. Standard sunset trip (3-4 hours): 300-450 EGP per person by local 4x4. Includes a spring lake swim in the dunes, sandboarding, and tea at sunset. The dunes reach 100+ metres. Book with a Siwan operator, not a Cairo-based tour company.

Entry: 25 EGP per person. The waterfall flows year-round between the upper and lower lakes — small but extraordinary in a desert context. The upper lake has migrating birds October-February. Hire a guide at the park entrance (100-150 EGP) to navigate unpaved tracks. Drive from Fayoum city: 45-60 minutes.

The north shore near Shakshuk has equipment rental for kite surfing and wind surfing (250-350 EGP/half day; lessons with local instructors). The lake is shallow (max 8m) — ideal for learning. Flamingos winter on the lake November-March, sharing the surface with kite boarders.

Entry: 100 EGP. Hire a microbus from Minya city (80-120 EGP return) and take the ferry to the east bank. Key sites: the North Tombs (14 painted rock-cut tombs of Amarna officials), the Small Temple remains, and the village of Et-Till built over the ancient city plan. Only partially excavated — the feeling of discovery remains strong.

Minya sits on a wide Nile bend with cliffs and farmland visible on the east bank. The Corniche runs 4km along the west bank — walkable in its entirety. Sunrise (5:30-6:30am summer, 6:30-7:30am winter) is the best time. Coffee from any riverside ahwa costs under 20 EGP. Minya is skipped by most tourists — as genuine an Upper Egypt scene as exists.